Romeing

Most of my sightseeing in Rome was unplanned, mostly because I didn't have a map for the first few days.  As such I would get off at an interesting metro stop and then wander through the small streets and piazzas until I found something interesting to see.  

Sunday: 

Having received my papal blessing I was off to wander the streets of Rome.  I walked from the Vatican to the river, past Castel Sant' Angelo, across the bridge, and toward Trevi Fountain.  The Trevi fountain was breathtaking but also packed with tourists. They apparently crawl out of the woodwork.  From the Trevi fountain I simply wandered and I apparently wandered through Piazza Colonna, Piazza di Monte Citorio, Piazza Navona,and Piazza di Spangna. In my wanderings I also enjoyed the most delicious pastry I have ever tasted.  It had a deliciously flaky crust and had neutella baked into the inside with some large almond shaped nuts that I didn’t recognize, but were absolutely divine.  Ordering it was a bit of a hassle because I bought it from a little hole in the wall shop where apparently no one spoke English.  Having enjoyed my pastry and walked around what seemed like half of Rome I made my way back to the metro and homewards.

Monday:

Trip of the day was St. Paul Outside the Walls. There I attended mass and prayed morning prayer. St Paul is much quieter than St. Peter’s and I enjoyed it that much more.  There is also an attached monastery, which I must admit I did not go in.  But, there is a beautiful garden in front of the church with a giant statue of St. Paul with a sword.  It was a lovely place to spend the morning.  From St. Paul’s I decided to wander a less touristy part of Rome.  This was very interesting – and to my benefit.  I ended up buying pizza from a traditional Italian pizzeria.  Pizza in Italy is square, sold by the ounce, and consumed standing up at the counter.  The crust is actually close to Dominoes.  The sauce is thin, but the cheese is thick.  I had tomatoes and pesto on top of mine and it was superb!   

Tuesday:

I committed all of Tuesday to traveling between the hostel in Ostia to the convent where I stayed with an order of the Handmaids of Charity.   I also spent nearly two hours in line waiting to make a reservation from Rome to Milan.

Wednesday:

The plan for the day was the Coliseum.  I took the bus to the tram and the tram to the right side of town.  On my walk to the Coliseum I passed several other ruins – and I took the obligatory pictures.  I had hopes for the Coliseum being free, but it was not to be so.  I did a brief circuit of the building, its actually not that big, and then hopped in line to buy my ticket.  The line was typical Italian style – just push ahead.  The people leading tours outside were claiming the wait was an hour, but I think it was actually only 30 minutes.  I got my ticket and was inside.  For 12€ I must say I was underwhelmed.  I suppose there’s a lot of build up for a place like the Coliseum, and I don’t think it lives up the hype.  It’s a big old amphitheater. There was a pretty interesting exhibit on Nero in the Coliseum, however.  It talked about the fire that ravaged Rome and enabled him to build his Domus Aurea, and how the lake of his palace was drained to build the Flavian Amphitheater. 

After the Coliseum I went in search of lunch.  Along the way I stopped in a piazza to sit in the shade.  This ended up being a good decision.   Among other things there was a crazy old lady with pigeons sitting on her, a little girl wearing three kinds of plaid, and a man who asked where the pantheon was.  From where he was standing he was staring at the back of a giant ancient looking brick dome (See picture at right).  What did he think that was?  There was also a mother who read to her daughter from a guidebook: “This is the only gothic church in Rome!”, and her daughter responded: “Oh so its all black inside?”

I had postponed my celebratory birthday meal from my godmother until I made it to Italy.  I first stopped at a restaurant recommended by the NY Times, but it was rather pricy.  Instead I stopped at a place in a back alley not too far from the pantheon.  I didn’t end up ordering seafood like I had thought I would, but I had some delicious Bruschetta and Risotto with strawberries.  I also had a desert with meringue, whipped cream, and strawberries.  I must admit it was a little warm for risotto, and strawberries with Parmesan cheese on top was interesting, but on the whole it was a delicious meal, and I was able to enjoy it with a lovely glass of white wine. 

From lunch I went back to wander the ruins of the Roman Forum.  I stopped on my way there to fill up my water bottle, and then to rest in the shade.  I do love that there are multiple fountains in Rome meant for their original purpose – drinking and cooling off.  I cannot think of any public fountains of this very practical sort at home.  Perhaps on the side of gas stations, but not decorative ones.  I like this reminder of the original purpose of fountains.  

Deciding I was no longer too full to walk I made it into the ruins.  The ruins of the forum were pretty standard I think – lots of bricks and stuff everywhere.  I did rather enjoy the temple of the Vestal Virgins and the palaces however.  I think I liked them more because they were a little more put together.  There was also a stadium which I couldn’t help but think of the training montage from Disney’s Hercules when I saw it.  Alas, Disney has ruined my perception of the ancients forever!  I wandered the park until 6pm, which was actually quite pleasant once one reached the back parts of it away from the largest groups of tourists. 

Thursday:

I started off early with mass at the Vatican. From there I was starving, so I headed off to Roscioli to get some gnocchi.  It was good, if a little overpriced I think.  I also wish I knew Italian so I could be pushier.  Then there was a lot of walking around.  I went to the church at above the Spanish Steps - where there was adoration, and then to Piazza del Popolo and the gardens of the Villa Borghese nearby.  I spent a lot of time sitting in various piazzas and watching tourists and couples.  It was mostly because of the heat that I was so slothful, but I think this may have been my favorite day of Rome, I really love watching people, Romans and tourists alike.